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Fulltone Inte kategoriserad Clyde Deluxe

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Congratulations on your purchase of the Fulltone

Guitar Player Magazine says: "....more pedal travel than the other wahs tested...yields great complexity in the middle registers...an experienced

wah user's pedal!"

Guitar Shop Magazine says: "the Clyde has the widest tonal range, the best tapered pot, the smoothest treadle action, and offers the most

control......preserving the alluring '60's tone while adding more flexibility for the '90's player, experience it for yourself!"

The Clyde is born from taking the best of the best of my more than 25 pc. vintage Vox wah collection, and analyzing every aspect... going so far as

sacrificing a few of the vintage inductors to get it right. The problem with the old (and other company's new) inductors is that they're generic

industrial-grade cheapos that vary as much as 30% in tolerance, some of my mediocre Vox's measured in at @360 mH. when they are supposed to

be 500mh. I like around 560mH. BTW, I’m getting tired of reading on the Forums that yet another pedal company is busted for claiming “custom

wound” this…and “Custom made” that, only to be found out as liars and cheats down the road . Rest assured, I’ve been doing this 20+ years AND I

employ an Electronic Engineer. I have deconstructed and Blueprinted every aspect of vintage Wah inductors, circuits, and Potentiometers…My

inductors are custom made and have been for 15years..they have my name on them, as are my Wah potentiometers!

My - -inductor: is a tuned core hand made unit....using EXACTLY the same type wire and inductance as the '60's era Vox, except VERY consistent from

one unit to the next. A Tuned core inductor is much more expensive to make, but Inductors also have a unique - the end result is worth it. My

MuMetal cover that rejects all of the stray hum fields that work their way in to other wah wahs, creating that horrible 60 cycle hum. The Clyde is

VERY quiet because of this.

My Potentiometer: the most overlooked part of the circuit, is one of the keys to a good wah wah sound and there hasn't been a proper "tapered"

pot, since the '60's "Icar" in any major manufacturer’s wah. This is one of the reasons the '70's, '80's, and '90's wahs are so mediocre. We've made

our own I call the Full range pot with a major difference....... Ours has a triple- -screened carbon composition track giving a 500,000 turn lifespan

instead of the standard industry 10,000.

I don't like the original Vox-type housings that everyone uses, and I had to design and produce one that made more sense. The traditional housings

don't give enough Potentiometer range limiting your tonal sweep, and they have little compensation for tension or feel. The Fulltone "Clyde" uses

our own custom made 14 ga. welded steel pedal with nylon pivot points and much more travel than the - conventional Vox-style ones that everyone

uses. It has nylok nuts so you can adjust the tension of the treadle, and it stays that way until you change it. As with all Fulltone pedals, the "Clyde"

has true bypass switching so that when it's "off" it's not coloring your sound or ruining the performance of other pedals in your signal chain. Unit

has a tough steel bottom plate with huge rubber feet and nickel plated bolts. Clyde also has a standard 2.1mm negative tip AC adapter port with - -

anti-hum filtering and protection diode.

Michael Fuller/Fulltone

Features:

3 way selectable switch:

#1 “Wacked” is reminiscent of the old Colorsound wahs. oowww” with extremely deep bass response. A radical change from ...more of a “woooo

the standard wah tones you’re used to.

#2 “Jimi” is our benchmark recreation of the late ‘60’s Vox Clyde McCoy wah wah as used by you who and Eric -know- Clapton circa Cream.

#3 “Shaft” shifts the whole range up a little to capture the ‘70’s sounds heard on all those funk classics and cheesy movie soundtracks!

Adjustable I : INPUT Level Control

This knob allows the user to not only fine- tune the desired volume level, but to also overdrive the wah a bit for more overtones and grit.

This control ONLY affects the “on” sound because this pedal has true bypass...finally you can control your wah volume to the nth-degree! LED

status a nice bright glowing red LED to tell you when it’s on.... clean sounding True Bypass when off!

Switchable JFET Buffer:

This circuit can only be active when your pedal is only when the switch is in the UP position!ON and

Its purpose is two-fold:

A) it allows your wah to work with high gain amplifiers and Distortion/Fuzz p- edals.

B) it offers you up to 12dB of clean Gain- Boost so you jump out of the mix....no more volume loss when the wah is engaged.

I developed this JFET powered circuit to impart no change whatsoever in your Clyde's tone, adding none of the harsh treble you get with other

active wah booster circuits. If you don't need or want it, simply flip the toggle switch to "off" position and you've got your same old CLYDE wah.

Your wah is still True-Bypass, so this circuit does not operate when your pedal is turned off and therefore won't affect other pedals in any way.

This Booster/Buffer is not to be confused with your CLYDE's "Input Level," which simply adjusts the amount of signal that gets into the pedal so you

can overdrive the transistors and Inductor. The Boost compromise solution to the ageer/Buffer a no- -old problem of wah wah pedals not being

"fuzz friendly."

Internal Resonance Control:

There is an user adjustable Trimmer inside your lovely new wah that lets you change the gain and bottom response...it is located on the -end (Bass)

circuit board and requires no tools to set. There is room around this trimmer for you to mark your favorite settings using any type of permanent

marker. With the wah plugged in and amp on, turn the wah over and remove the back plate by loosening the 4 rubber feet (note: no tools

required, just turn counter clockwise until they come out) With the wah situated in front of you so that the section of the unit with the battery is

facing you, notice the trimmer with a line pointing to a black arrow (this is my favorite setting) for your particular wah) Now set the trimmer to @ 2

O'clock. that's a stock '60's Vox sound. Turning the trimmer clockwise gets more gain and Bass.

True Bypass switching is essential for no tone loss when effect is off. The wah is activated by rocking all the way forward and pressing hard with

your foot. This amount of pressure needed to activate effect can be adjusted for firmer or softer feel....simply contact Fulltone if you have any

questions.

The Treadle (part that your foot rests on!) is also adjustable for a firmer or softer feel. This is accomplished by either loosening or tightening the

"nylock" nut on the side of the treadle at the pivot point where it connects to the bottom housing. It will stay put until you change it the next time.-

WARNING! DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING INTO THE POTENTIOMETER TO CLEAN IT unless it's Craig DeOxit D5 and you know what you're doing,

meaning, a small, quick spray once a year or so! Do not use WD- 40 or any other oil/spray. Contact us if you have questions.

Power: -I recommend using a Carbon Zinc 9 volt battery (included) such as the Eveready "Classic" or "Super Heavy Duty" instead of an Alkaline,

which although they last longer, tend to sound harsh. Do your own experiments..... e the wah plugged in and change through a couple of leav

different types of batteries, but keep your amp's volume down so as not to damage your ears or the amp from the noise when reconnecting the

next battery. This pedal is also equipped with a convenient , make note of this, and 9 volt DC jack that is -center pin Negative make sure the adapter

you use is the same!!!!!!